The Shady Side of Gardening

October 8, 20109:00 a.m. to 2:30 p.m.
Garvan Woodland Gardens
Topics include:Hostas and companion plants
Designing woodland and Japanese gardens
Coleus Tropical shade plants

Presenters:Janet Carson, U of A Cooperative Extension Service - Horticulture Specialist
Bob Byers, Garvan Woodland Gardens Resident Landscape Architect
Larry Averill, Garland County Master Gardener
Rand Retzloff, Hosta Specialist - Grand Designs
Glenn Stokes, Renowned tropical plant expert - Stokes Tropicals, Jeanerette, LA
Cost: GWG Members - $45; Non-members $55 (Price includes lunch. Advance reservations and prepayment required.) To register, contact Garvan Woodland Gardens.

Garvan Woodland Gardens
University of Arkansas
550 Arkridge Rd. ● Hot Springs, AR
501-262-9300 / 800-366-4664

Beware of this insidious garden pest: The Garden Gnome

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D0foMKAxCww

Blackberry Lilly

I found this little gem while visiting the Ozark Folk Center, causing me to exclaim: "Where have you been all my life?"

Here's the scoop:This uncommon perennial is grown for its unusual black berries that form in clusters when its seedpods split open in fall. They are fascinating to behold in the garden and often brought indoors for arrangements.
In summer, this easy-care iris relative bears small orange or yellow flowers dotted with red. Plants are short-lived, but self-sow to replace themselves.
Light: Sun, Part Sun
Zones:5-10
Plant Type:Perennial, Bulb
Plant Height:24-40 inches tall
Plant Width: 15-20 inches wide
Landscape Uses:Containers, Beds & Borders
Special Features:Flowers, Fall Color, Winter Interest, Cut Flowers, Dried Flowers, Drought Tolerant, Easy to Grow

Plants for Edible Landscaping

Before you begin designing an edible landscape keep these things in mind:

• Not all parts of edible flowers are necessarily edible. For all but violas, Johnny-jump-ups, pansies, and nasturtiums, remove sepals (green parts at base of flowers) before eating.
• Have a positive I.D. a flower before eating it. Many plants share common names, so be sure to purchase seeds and plants only of those identified by their Latin names.
• Don't eat flowers if you have asthma or allergies.
• For best flavor, remove pistils and stamens from blossoms.
• Edible ornamentals should not be treated with pesticides.
• Additional cautions are noted throughout the list below.

Annual Plants with Edible Fruit:

• Eggplant – Tidy bushes with shiny, variably shaped fruits in a range of colors: white, green, orange, pink, and purple.
• Okra – Green or purple foliage is the backdrop for hibiscus-like blossoms followed by quirky, upward-pointing pods of green or maroon. Large or dwarf varieties available.
• Peanut – Perky green plants with bright yellow flowers. They have a fascinating growth habit: After pollination the flower stalk elongates, touches the soil, and fruits (peanuts) develop underground.
• Pepper – Shiny fruits in a wide variety of colors (red, orange, yellow, green, purple), flavors (sweet to hot), and shapes (bell, banana, bonnet, berries, etc.).

Perennial Plants with Edible Fruit:

• Dwarf banana – Tropical plant with evergreen foliage, sweet smelling flowers, and edible fruit. Adapts well to containers.
• Strawberry – Excellent ground cover or border plant with runners that spreads by long stems called runners. Features white or pink flowers and delicious fruits.

Vines:

• Grape – Hardy, vigorous vines can cover a large area quickly. Many varieties to choose from, adapted to a wide range of environments. Look for varieties with disease resistance.
• Grow on a strong trellis or arbor. Fruit matures in late summer to early fall. Require annual pruning for good fruit production.
• Kiwi – An attractive, vigorous vine for an arbor or trellis. Fruit ripens in fall and is high in Vitamin C. This plant is dioecious – male and female flowers appear on separate plants — so you’ll need to have one of each to ensure pollination and fruit set. Require pruning.

Shrubs:

• Blackberry – Shrubs have long canes that grow to heights of five to 10 feet tall. Look for varieties with thornless stems — they don’t spread like the thorny types do. Fruit matures in mid to late summer.
• Blueberry – Attractive, low-maintenance shrubs with good fall color. Range from four to seven feet tall. Fruit matures in early to mid-summer. Requires acidic soil. Has few pests other than hungry birds.
• Elderberry (Sambucus canadensis) – Hardy native shrub with attractive foliage and large clusters of spring flowers. Fruit matures in late summer and is good for jellies, jams, and pie. Caution: Unripe fruit and other parts of the plant are toxic if ingested.
• Pineapple guava – Evergreen shrub growing to 15 feet tall. Has attractive and unusual red flowers, which are also edible. Produces small blue fruits that taste like a blend of pineapple and strawberry.
• Rose – Beautiful blooms go without saying, but several species (R. rugosa, canina, eglanteria, and pomifera) are also prized for their tasty rose hips. They’re high in Vitamin C and make a tangy jam and an ingredient for tea. Some species are vigorous spreaders.

Plants with Edible Leaves (Annuals unless otherwise noted):

• Basil - a number of different varieties are available, including some with deep purple leaves and curly foliage. Produce attractive flowers (although if harvesting leaves it is best to remove flower buds and encourage vegetative growth). Various flavors available: lemon, lime, anise, and cinnamon.
• Cabbage – A diverse selection available, including varieties of different sizes and colors (red, purple, and white).
• Dill – Airy foliage with attractive yellow flowers. Attracts butterflies
• Fennel – Fine-textured foliage in green and bronze. Tastes of anise. Attracts butterflies.
• Kale – Finely curled leaves providing seasonal color with varieties available in a range of reds, purples, and greens.
• Lettuce – A wide range of varieties available, providing many different colors (reds, purples, and all shades of greens) and textures to the landscape. Cool-season crop for spring and fall harvest.
• Malabar spinach – A vine with thick, dark green leaves that can be harvested throughout the summer. Grow on a trellis or in a hanging basket.
• Parsley – Biennial herb. Some varieties have frilly, decorative leaves and an attractive mounding growth habit.
• Sage – Evergreen perennial herb. Many varieties of different colors, including shades of green, purple, and even a tricolor variety with variegated pink, green, and white foliage.
• Swiss chard – The variety 'Bright Lights' features plants with stems and leaf veins of various bright colors, including yellow, pink, red, orange, purple, white, and green.

Annual Plants with Edible Flowers:

• Calendula/pot marigold (Calendula officinalis) – Blossoms of yellow, gold, orange, and bicolor flowers that have a tangy, peppery flavor.
• French marigold (Tagetes patula) – Varieties ‘Lemon Gem’ and ‘Tangerine Gem’ have best flavor.
• Johnny-jump-up (Viola tricolor) – Tiny three-colored blossoms have a wintergreen flavor. Spread readily from seed. Caution: Do not eat in large amounts.
• Signet marigold (Tagetes signata) – features white, gold, yellow or red colored flowers with a citrus flavor. Caution: may be harmful if eaten in large quantities.
• Nasturtium (Tropaeolum majus) – Compact plants or trailing varieties with edible lily-pad like foliage and blossoms. Flowers range from white through yellows and dark red. Blossoms are sweet with a peppery watercress flavor. Contain Vitamin C.
• Pansy (Viola x wittrockiana) – Popular bedding plants. Different varieties sport a full spectrum of solid and multicolor flowers. Cool-season annuals.Petunia (Petunia hybrida) – Summer-blooming flower that comes in a wide range of colors and has a mild flavor.
• Pineapple sage (Salvia elegans) – Scarlet-colored flowers have a sage flavor with pineapple undertones
• Scented geraniums (Pelargonium spp.) – Blossoms of white, red, pink or purple have a wide range of flavors, such as apple, lemon, orange, depending on the species and variety.
• Scarlet runner beans (Phaseolus vulgaris) – Tall, vigorous bean vines with orange- to scarlet-colored flowers with a mild, raw bean flavor. Require a tepee or trellis at least 8 feet tall.
• Sunflower (Helianthus annuus) – Flowers of white, yellow, orange, burgundy, or multiple colors. Unopened buds taste like a mild artichoke. Flower petals are bittersweet.
  Perennial Plants with Edible Flowers:
• Artichoke – Immature flower buds are very mild and sweet. The plant itself has attractive gray-green foliage.
• Chives – Blossoms are white, lavender, or purple with a strong onion flavor.
• Pinks (Dianthus spp.) – Pink, white, and red flowers have a spicy, clove-like flavor.
• Daylily (Hemerocallis spp.) – Comes in a wide range of flower colors. Buds and blossoms have a mild asparagus or summer squash flavor.
• Violet – (Viola odorata) – Perennial with violet or white flowers that have a sweet flavor.
  

Plant Propagation Fact Sheet

http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/depts/hort/hil/hil-8702.html

Perennial Encyclopedia

Here is an excellent website for perennial gardeners. Follow the link: to Perennial Resource

Single Nozzle Back Pack or ATV Sprayer Calibration

Here is a link to a fact sheet that will help you calibrate your single nozzle sprayers for the best results in your weed control efforts!

http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/pdffiles/WG/WG21700.pdf

Whiteflies

Even County Extension Agents get caught off guard. I rarely pay much attention to my gardenia. But the other day I noticed the leaves looked smutty. Under closer inspection I discovered whiteflies. They are like aphids in that they suck the sap of ornamentals. Leaving a honeydew that causes a mildewy stuff to grow on the upper side of the leaves. My boxwoods also are infested. So now I have to start treatment. Wish me luck.

Control:
whitefly control is difficult because the eggs and larvae have become resistant to many insecticides. Insect growth regulators such as kinoprene, azadiractin, diflubenzuron, pyriproxyfen and fenoxycarb should be used to aid in control of the immature stages. The other listed insecticides should be used to target both immatures and adults. Use both insect growth regulators and conventional insecticides for best control. Start chemical control early before populations build, using alternate sprays of insect growth regulators, insecticidal soap and horticultural oil. If adult populations are increasing, use one of the other insecticides to reduce the adult whitefly population.

Outdoors use: bifenthrin (Talstar Lawn and Tree 7.9 F), fluvalinate (Mavrik Aquaflow 22.3 F), endosulfan (Thiodan 50 WP, Thiodan 3 EC), acephate (Orthene Turf, Tree and Ornamental Spray 75 SP, Address T/O 75 SP), cyfluthrin (Advanced Garden Lawn and Garden Multi-
Insect Killer, Tempo 20 WP, outdoor use of Decathlon 20 WP designated for nurseries), beta-cyfluthrin (Tempo SC Ultra 1 SC), permethrin (Astro 36.8 EC), insecticidal soap (Safer Insecticidal Soap, M-Pede), horticultural oil (SunSpray Ultra-Fine Oil), pyrethrins plus piperonyl butoxide (Pyrenone), imidacloprid (Merit 75 WP, Merit 2 F, Marathon 60 WP, Advanced Garden Tree and Shrub Insect Control, Marathon II 2F), imidacloprid plus cyfluthrin (Advanced Garden Rose and Flower Insect Killer), disulfoton plus 12-18-6 fertilizer (Advanced Garden 2-in-1 systemic Rose and Flower Care), abamectin (Avid 0.15 EC), or azadirachtin (Azatin XL, Safer Bioneem, Ornazin 3% EC).
Follow label directions carefully. Repeat sprays every four to five days until whiteflies are under control. Do not use horticultural oil more than once per week.

Ornamental Grasses Database

Here is an excellent resource for ornamental grasses. Most of the links have growing information as well as a photograph.

Soil pH Impacts Nutrient Utilization

You might read the title of this post and immediately skip to something much more intriguing on the Internet...but wait! This is important! Give me a minute to elaborate. When the pH of your soil gets too low (as it tends to do here in Southern Arkansas) the nutrients in the soil become less available to your plants. It's that simple. Just one more reason you should be soil sampling!

Soil Test!

I confess: I hadn't soil tested my garden in over 4 years. (yikes) Last year things didn't go so well, not only in my garden but in many gardens in this area. What a crazy wet year 2009 was. So, determined to turn over a new leaf (no pun intended) I collected soil samples (this process took a total of 7 minutes) and sent them in thinking to myself "I bet I need to lime". Guess what! my pH was actually in the 6.5 range in all my gardens! Now I'm a BIG proponent of 'lazy method' gardening, but had I chosen to take the 'lazy' way out I would have limed based on my hunch. My soil report had other surprises for me. My Phosphorus and Potassium (the last two numbers on the fertilizer bag) were above optimum. So the 'lazy' method of just throwing out some 13-13-13 fertilizer would be overkill and unnecessary as well as expensive.

So the take-home message? Soil test. It's free (in Arkansas), its fast, and it could save you $$.

Plant Disease Newsletter March

Includes: Orchid, Kolanchoe, blackberry, turnip and mustard.

http://plantpathology.uark.edu/Number1-2010.pdf

Raised Beds For Back Comfort

Visit the Noble Foundation website for information about back "friendly" raised bed designs.

http://www.noble.org/ag/Horticulture/RaisedBedForBack/index.html

Loropetalum

Want to try something different in your Southern landscape? Breaking with the traditional shrubs like Azalea and Gardenia, Loropetalum offers something different. Varieties are Available that range in mature size from 3-4 feet tall and 10-15 feet wide and can be planted in either sunny or shady locations.

Historic Washington State Park 42 Annual Jonquil Festival

March 19-21!

http://www.historicwashingtonstatepark.com/calendar-of-events/calendar-detail.asp?id=35029

Spring... A Time To Till Program

The Nevada County Master Gardeners will be hosting a gardening seminar on Saturday March 20, 2010 at Central Baptist Church Stokes Center in Prescott. Janet Carson, Associate Professor with the University of Arkansas Cooperative Extension Service, will present "Renovating the Landscape". Janet writes for the Arkansas Democrat Gazette, and hosts a radio call in show on KARN every Saturday as well as Today's Garden TV program on AETN.

Chris Olsen will present "Color Your World" and is a gardening specialist seen on Today's THV television program, landscape designer and owner of Botanica Gardens in Little Rock AR. His website is:

http://www.chrisholsen.com/media.htm

Advance Registration is required and due March 15, cost is $20.00 per person. Proceeds go toward the Nevada County Master Gardeners community service projects. For more info: Nevada County Extension Office at 870-887-2818.

Consider Crinums!

Crinum lilies are one of the South's most loved "passalong" plants. Crinums have excellent longevity, they can live for decades, and they are heat and drought tolerant. They boast beautiful ribbon like leaves that can be as tall as 4 feet in the summer. During July and August the scapes emerge with dozens of tumpet-shaped blooms. The Crinum "Cecil Houdyshel (pictured at top) blooms from May-October! Best of all, they CAN be grown in containers.

Tetanus

Tetanus is an accute disease caused by a toxin produced by the bacteria Clostridium tetani (C. tetani), which are found in the soil, and in the intestines and feces of horses, sheep, cattle, dogs, cats, rats, guinea pigs, and chickens. Manure-treated soil may contain large numbers of spores. In agricultural areas, a significant number of human adults may harbor the organism.

C. tetani usually enters the body through a wound. In the presence of anaerobic (low oxygen) conditions, the spores germinate. Toxins are produced and disseminated via blood and lymphatics. Toxins act at several sites within the central nervous system, including peripheral motor end plates, spinal cord, and brain, and in the sympathetic nervous system. The typical clinical manifestations of tetanus are caused when tetanus toxin interferes with release of neurotransmitters, blocking inhibitor impulses. This leads to unopposed muscle contraction and spasm. Seizures may occur, and the autonomic nervous system may also be affected.

The most common type (about 80%) of reported tetanus is generalized tetanus. The disease usually presents with a descending pattern. The first sign is trismus or lockjaw, followed by stiffness of the neck, difficulty in swallowing, and rigidity of abdominal muscles. Other symptoms include elevated temperature, sweating, elevated blood pressure, and episodic rapid heart rate. Spasms may occur frequently and last for several minutes. Spasms continue for 3–4 weeks. Complete recovery may take months.

Tetanus is an important part of the vaccination schedule of children. Everyone should have a tetanus booster every 10 years. (source Centers for Disease Control)

Planning Your Herb Garden

My daughter and I have enjoyed our herb garden tremendously. We built simple raised beds using reclaimed wood, compost, and the design and method suggested by the Pioneer Woman: http://thepioneerwoman.com/homeandgarden/2009/02/build-your-own-raised-flowervegetable-bed/ Notice we put them close to the compost pile, and used pine straw as mulch between the beds where mowing would be a hassle.

We planted Rosemary, Thyme, Basil, Oregano, Cilantro and Dill. (For the record, the dill came back from seed in year 2). The Rosemary and Thyme have survived this winter! We dried the extra herbs and put them into jars and have really enjoyed cooking savory warm stews and other comfort foods this wet dreary winter.

I thought that since you're all cooped up trying to stay dry and warm you might want to plan your herb garden. Most herbs like full sun. All herbs like well drained soil.

Here is a neat publication with drying tips as well as other suggested uses: http://www.uaex.edu/Other_Areas/publications/PDF/FCS460.pdf

Bon Appetit!

Other Spots of Interest

Please note that I've put a list of links (to the left) that I think you will find useful. Simply click and explore! Perfect pastime during this deep freeze in the South.

Spurweed Scourge of the South

Spurweed (Soliva pterosperma) is a winter annual weed that germinates early in the fall. As temperatures warm in the early spring, spurweed initiates a period of rapid growth and begins to form spine-tipped burs. The sharp-tipped spiny burs of this weed can cause minor irritation to the skin. Key identification characteristics of spurweed are: 1) opposite, sparsely hairy leaves that are divided into numerous segments, or lobes, b) small, inconspicuous flowers, and c) spine tipped burs that are found in the leaf axils (junction of leaf and stem). Spurweed attains an overall diameter of up to 6 inches and a height of about 3 to 4 inches. It is commonly found in the Southern half of Arkansas.

Spurweed can be easily controlled during the winter months. December, January and February are ideal months to apply herbicides for the control of this weed. However, the weed can also be effectively controlled in March in most areas of Arkansas. On non-overseeded bermudagrass, Aatrex (a Restricted Use Herbicide), simazine (Princep, others) and Sencor Turf will effectively control spurweed. This group of herbicides should not be used on bermudagrass overseeded with a cool-season turfgrass or on tall fescue, as they are injurious to cool-season turfgrasses. The best option for control spurweed control by homeowners is a postemergence application of one ofe the various two and three-way mixes of 2,4-D, dicamba and MCPP. Trimec is one of the most common trade names in this category. These products can be used on tall fescue, fall overseeded bermudagrass in which the overseeded cool-season grass has been mowed four to five times and non-overseeded bermudagrass. This group of products should be applied on a warm (air temperatures at least 55 degrees Fahrenheit), sunny day. Two to three weeks after the initial application, spurweed control should be evaluated. If control is not acceptable, an additional application may be necessary.

The key factor to effectively controlling spurweed is to apply an appropriate herbicide during the winter months. Spurweed is small and easier to control at this time of the year than in April and May. Also, turfgrasses are not actively growing during the winter months and have better tolerance to some herbicides. Spurweed can be controlled in late-March, April and early May. However, two main facts should be considered. Spurweed begins to die as late spring temperatures approach 90 degrees Fahrenheit and the plant is harder to control once the spiny burs or stickers have formed. Multiple herbicide applications are usually necessary, which increases the risk of temporary injury to the turfgrass. Additionally, it takes time for the herbicide to control spurweed, and after death, it takes time for the dead spurweed plants to decompose. Therein lies one of the main problems with late treatments. Dead spurweed plants contain dead, or brown spine-tipped burs. Dead or alive, the spiny burs still present a problem. The only recourse at this point is to allow time for the plant to decompose.

Renovating Your Lawn Using Sod

http://www.uaex.edu/Other_Areas/publications/PDF/FSA-2042.pdf

Mistakes are expensive! Do it right the first time.

Garden Calendar Link

http://www.uaex.edu/Other_Areas/publications/PDF/MP422.pdf

Click to see the Garden Calendar pdf. Maybe it will be dry enough to garden soon. :)

Rose Pruning

Prune in the cut marks indicated.

Pruning Roses

Yearly rose pruning is required to maintain the size and vigor of most rose bushes. They should be pruned before the plants begin to grow but after the most severe winter weather is over. Early to mid-February is a good time to do this work. Leather gloves and a pair of sharp shears are all that are needed.

To prune bush roses (hybrid teas, floribunda, multifloras), remove all dead and diseased stems. Make all cuts 1/4 inch above a strong outward facing bud (see Figure 17). Next, remove all weak wood that is smaller than a pencil in diameter and all canes that are growing to the center of the bush. Finally, shape the plant by cutting the remaining canes back to a uniform height, usually 24 to 30 inches for strong plants. Most plants have four to eight strong canes after pruning. If fewer more spectacular blossoms are desired, the plants may be cut back to 16 inches.

Everblooming climbers usually do not require annual pruning. Pruning should be performed to invigorate older plants and to remove weak canes (see Figure 17). Pruning should be limited to that required to keep the plant in bounds and to remove the old canes as they cease active growth and flowering. They should be pruned in the spring before growth begins.

The older climbing roses that produce only one flush of blooms should not be pruned until after they have bloomed. The oldest canes should then be removed to stimulate new vigorous growth which will produce next year’s blooms. They may require some corrective pruning during the growing season to keep the plant in bounds.

The species roses or shrub roses are usually so vigorous that pruning is needed periodically to thin out crowded stems and make way for new growth. These plants should be pruned after they have bloomed.

February in the Landscape

It's almost February!

Pruning―Except for maples and birches, now is a good time to prune trees. If limbs are more than an inch in diameter, use the three-step method for removing branches. Make the first cut on the underside of the limb around 6 to 8 inches away from the trunk. Cut about half the thickness of the branch. Go to the top of the limb, and cut off the limb halfway between the underside cut and the trunk. The resulting stub should then be cut within 1/2 inch of the trunk.

Summer Flowering Trees and Shrubs Which Should be Pruned Before Spring Growth Begins:
•Beautyberry
• Chaste Tree (Vitex)
•Crapemyrtle
• Glossy Abelia
•Hybrid Tea Roses
• P.G. Hydrangea
• Mimosa (Silk Tree)
•Rose-of-sharon
• Summer Blooming Clematis
• Summer Blooming Spireas

Lawns―Winter weeds are evident in dormant warm-season turf now. Apply spot applications of post-emergence herbicides or hand pull to control. When selecting a post-emergence herbicide make sure you follow label directions, and that the product is approved for your particular grass type. Otherwise you may injure or kill it.

Forcing Cut branches―When forsythia, quince, star magnolia, and saucer magnolia buds show a touch of color, they are easy to force into bloom indoors. Cut branches, taking care not to destroy the natural shape of the plant. They should be in full bloom several days after you place them in a vase of water indoors.

Ask Janet

http://www.arhomeandgarden.org/_archive/askjanet/ref_desk.htm

This is the link to the "In the Garden Reference Desk". Enjoy!

Some Blog Tips

Here are a few things that might help you enjoy your blog more:
You can view larger versions of the pictures by clicking on them.
To view comments simply click on the comment link.
To comment click on the comment link and type away. You'll be asked to type a series of letters as you see them, this prevents posts from computerized spammers.
You are welcome to ask questions in the comment sections.
You are also welcome to request information or suggest ideas for future posts in the comment area.

Flouride Toxicity in House Plants

House Plants Necrotic lesions and foliar tip burn are common on Parlor palms subjected to fluoridated water. Chinese evergreen, Peacock Plant, Spider Plant, Ti Plant, Dracaena, Dragon Plant, Peace Lilies, Cast Iron Plants, Prayer Plants, Easter Lilies, and Spineless Yucca are also sensitive to fluoride. Superphosphate fertilizer, perlite, fluoridated water, and some peats are sources of fluoride. Fluoride toxicity is seldom fatal. It can be managed by insuring that the soil pH is between 6.0-6.5, and avoiding the use of superphosphates.
Source: Sherrie Smith University of Arkansas Cooperative Extension

Comments

I've made and adjustment and now you don't have to be a registered user to comment. We'll see how we like that...of course if perverts or nutjobs start commenting on everything we'll change back. Comments are the way bloggers know SOMEONE actually cares about the blog. (ego ya know) ha.

January Lawn Tips

Turf―A dry winter day is a good time to mow a dormant, warm-season lawn. This grooms the lawn and removes fallen leaves and pine needles. It also allows you to inspect your yard for winter weeds. Control them by spraying when the weather warms in spring.

Planting―This is a good time to plant new shrubs and trees. Evaluate your landscape, remove unattractive plants, and replace them with others that you prefer.

Diagnose This 2!

This is a Dogwood tree. What is it infected with? Any guesses?

Diagnose This Answer:

Scale Insects, Order homoptera.

For scale, spray plant with fine horticultural oil, insecticidal soap, or malathion, or use a product containing imidicloprid. Sprays will have to be repeated. Follow label.

Diagnose This!

Can you identify the pest or disease infecting this Evergreen Euonymus? (Euonymus japonicus) Take a guess and post your suppositions in the comment area. I'll reveal the pest and treatment tomorrow!

January Garden Tips!

This month take a break from the blahs of winter and start planning your vegetable garden! This month you can:
Order Seed
Lime Soil
Plant Salad Greens (Protected)
Order Catalogs
Start Lettuce in Cold Frame
Plant Salad Greens later in the month.
Spinach later in the month
Add Compost
Prepare Soil
Test Soil
Late in month plant English Peas