Prune in the cut marks indicated.
Tuesday, January 26, 2010
Pruning Roses
Yearly rose pruning is required to maintain the size and vigor of most rose bushes. They should be pruned before the plants begin to grow but after the most severe winter weather is over. Early to mid-February is a good time to do this work. Leather gloves and a pair of sharp shears are all that are needed.
To prune bush roses (hybrid teas, floribunda, multifloras), remove all dead and diseased stems. Make all cuts 1/4 inch above a strong outward facing bud (see Figure 17). Next, remove all weak wood that is smaller than a pencil in diameter and all canes that are growing to the center of the bush. Finally, shape the plant by cutting the remaining canes back to a uniform height, usually 24 to 30 inches for strong plants. Most plants have four to eight strong canes after pruning. If fewer more spectacular blossoms are desired, the plants may be cut back to 16 inches.
Everblooming climbers usually do not require annual pruning. Pruning should be performed to invigorate older plants and to remove weak canes (see Figure 17). Pruning should be limited to that required to keep the plant in bounds and to remove the old canes as they cease active growth and flowering. They should be pruned in the spring before growth begins.
The older climbing roses that produce only one flush of blooms should not be pruned until after they have bloomed. The oldest canes should then be removed to stimulate new vigorous growth which will produce next year’s blooms. They may require some corrective pruning during the growing season to keep the plant in bounds.
The species roses or shrub roses are usually so vigorous that pruning is needed periodically to thin out crowded stems and make way for new growth. These plants should be pruned after they have bloomed.
To prune bush roses (hybrid teas, floribunda, multifloras), remove all dead and diseased stems. Make all cuts 1/4 inch above a strong outward facing bud (see Figure 17). Next, remove all weak wood that is smaller than a pencil in diameter and all canes that are growing to the center of the bush. Finally, shape the plant by cutting the remaining canes back to a uniform height, usually 24 to 30 inches for strong plants. Most plants have four to eight strong canes after pruning. If fewer more spectacular blossoms are desired, the plants may be cut back to 16 inches.
Everblooming climbers usually do not require annual pruning. Pruning should be performed to invigorate older plants and to remove weak canes (see Figure 17). Pruning should be limited to that required to keep the plant in bounds and to remove the old canes as they cease active growth and flowering. They should be pruned in the spring before growth begins.
The older climbing roses that produce only one flush of blooms should not be pruned until after they have bloomed. The oldest canes should then be removed to stimulate new vigorous growth which will produce next year’s blooms. They may require some corrective pruning during the growing season to keep the plant in bounds.
The species roses or shrub roses are usually so vigorous that pruning is needed periodically to thin out crowded stems and make way for new growth. These plants should be pruned after they have bloomed.
February in the Landscape
It's almost February!
Pruning―Except for maples and birches, now is a good time to prune trees. If limbs are more than an inch in diameter, use the three-step method for removing branches. Make the first cut on the underside of the limb around 6 to 8 inches away from the trunk. Cut about half the thickness of the branch. Go to the top of the limb, and cut off the limb halfway between the underside cut and the trunk. The resulting stub should then be cut within 1/2 inch of the trunk.
Summer Flowering Trees and Shrubs Which Should be Pruned Before Spring Growth Begins:
•Beautyberry
• Chaste Tree (Vitex)
•Crapemyrtle
• Glossy Abelia
•Hybrid Tea Roses
• P.G. Hydrangea
• Mimosa (Silk Tree)
•Rose-of-sharon
• Summer Blooming Clematis
• Summer Blooming Spireas
Lawns―Winter weeds are evident in dormant warm-season turf now. Apply spot applications of post-emergence herbicides or hand pull to control. When selecting a post-emergence herbicide make sure you follow label directions, and that the product is approved for your particular grass type. Otherwise you may injure or kill it.
Forcing Cut branches―When forsythia, quince, star magnolia, and saucer magnolia buds show a touch of color, they are easy to force into bloom indoors. Cut branches, taking care not to destroy the natural shape of the plant. They should be in full bloom several days after you place them in a vase of water indoors.
Pruning―Except for maples and birches, now is a good time to prune trees. If limbs are more than an inch in diameter, use the three-step method for removing branches. Make the first cut on the underside of the limb around 6 to 8 inches away from the trunk. Cut about half the thickness of the branch. Go to the top of the limb, and cut off the limb halfway between the underside cut and the trunk. The resulting stub should then be cut within 1/2 inch of the trunk.
Summer Flowering Trees and Shrubs Which Should be Pruned Before Spring Growth Begins:
•Beautyberry
• Chaste Tree (Vitex)
•Crapemyrtle
• Glossy Abelia
•Hybrid Tea Roses
• P.G. Hydrangea
• Mimosa (Silk Tree)
•Rose-of-sharon
• Summer Blooming Clematis
• Summer Blooming Spireas
Lawns―Winter weeds are evident in dormant warm-season turf now. Apply spot applications of post-emergence herbicides or hand pull to control. When selecting a post-emergence herbicide make sure you follow label directions, and that the product is approved for your particular grass type. Otherwise you may injure or kill it.
Forcing Cut branches―When forsythia, quince, star magnolia, and saucer magnolia buds show a touch of color, they are easy to force into bloom indoors. Cut branches, taking care not to destroy the natural shape of the plant. They should be in full bloom several days after you place them in a vase of water indoors.
Friday, January 15, 2010
Ask Janet
http://www.arhomeandgarden.org/_archive/askjanet/ref_desk.htm
This is the link to the "In the Garden Reference Desk". Enjoy!
This is the link to the "In the Garden Reference Desk". Enjoy!
Thursday, January 14, 2010
Some Blog Tips
Here are a few things that might help you enjoy your blog more:
You can view larger versions of the pictures by clicking on them.
To view comments simply click on the comment link.
To comment click on the comment link and type away. You'll be asked to type a series of letters as you see them, this prevents posts from computerized spammers.
You are welcome to ask questions in the comment sections.
You are also welcome to request information or suggest ideas for future posts in the comment area.
You can view larger versions of the pictures by clicking on them.
To view comments simply click on the comment link.
To comment click on the comment link and type away. You'll be asked to type a series of letters as you see them, this prevents posts from computerized spammers.
You are welcome to ask questions in the comment sections.
You are also welcome to request information or suggest ideas for future posts in the comment area.
Flouride Toxicity in House Plants
House Plants Necrotic lesions and foliar tip burn are common on Parlor palms subjected to fluoridated water. Chinese evergreen, Peacock Plant, Spider Plant, Ti Plant, Dracaena, Dragon Plant, Peace Lilies, Cast Iron Plants, Prayer Plants, Easter Lilies, and Spineless Yucca are also sensitive to fluoride. Superphosphate fertilizer, perlite, fluoridated water, and some peats are sources of fluoride. Fluoride toxicity is seldom fatal. It can be managed by insuring that the soil pH is between 6.0-6.5, and avoiding the use of superphosphates.
Source: Sherrie Smith University of Arkansas Cooperative Extension
Friday, January 8, 2010
Comments
I've made and adjustment and now you don't have to be a registered user to comment. We'll see how we like that...of course if perverts or nutjobs start commenting on everything we'll change back. Comments are the way bloggers know SOMEONE actually cares about the blog. (ego ya know) ha.
Thursday, January 7, 2010
January Lawn Tips
Turf―A dry winter day is a good time to mow a dormant, warm-season lawn. This grooms the lawn and removes fallen leaves and pine needles. It also allows you to inspect your yard for winter weeds. Control them by spraying when the weather warms in spring.
Planting―This is a good time to plant new shrubs and trees. Evaluate your landscape, remove unattractive plants, and replace them with others that you prefer.
Planting―This is a good time to plant new shrubs and trees. Evaluate your landscape, remove unattractive plants, and replace them with others that you prefer.
Tuesday, January 5, 2010
Diagnose This Answer:
Scale Insects, Order homoptera.
For scale, spray plant with fine horticultural oil, insecticidal soap, or malathion, or use a product containing imidicloprid. Sprays will have to be repeated. Follow label.
Diagnose This!
Can you identify the pest or disease infecting this Evergreen Euonymus? (Euonymus japonicus) Take a guess and post your suppositions in the comment area. I'll reveal the pest and treatment tomorrow!
Monday, January 4, 2010
January Garden Tips!
This month take a break from the blahs of winter and start planning your vegetable garden! This month you can:
Order Seed
Lime Soil
Plant Salad Greens (Protected)
Order Catalogs
Start Lettuce in Cold Frame
Plant Salad Greens later in the month.
Spinach later in the month
Add Compost
Prepare Soil
Test Soil
Late in month plant English Peas
Order Seed
Lime Soil
Plant Salad Greens (Protected)
Order Catalogs
Start Lettuce in Cold Frame
Plant Salad Greens later in the month.
Spinach later in the month
Add Compost
Prepare Soil
Test Soil
Late in month plant English Peas
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